Tag: Tourists

Day 7: The Final Push

After a great night of sleep in Harper’s Ferry, we woke up and had breakfast at the hotel with Ellen’s cousin Peter.  We three bikers ate the equivalent of about 9 breakfasts, as we all chatted for about 45 minutes before setting out on the trail for the final push to DC!

We made our way back to the bridge over the Potomac, leading to the trail, having to this time carry our bikes down the twisting metal staircase of doom.  There were less tourists this time.  For part of the way out of Harper’s Ferry, we were also on the Appalachian Trail:

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Seeing this sign made me really appreciate just how massive and impressive a trip an Appalachian Trail thru-hike would be.  It is definitely something on my bucket list, if I could ever manage to get away from my current obligations for at least 6 months.  Although, I also just genuinely enjoy biking much more than hiking.

Anyone know of any interesting Appalachian Trail blogs accounts?  Even if it’s something I may never do, I love reading about other people’s adventures.

Anyway, as we started Day 7, I think we were all feeling various aches and pains from the previous 6 days of riding: sore butts, stiff shoulders, tired wrists, and random bruises from flailing our bikes and packs around.  We mostly have written about the cool stuff we’ve seen and done, but much of the trip takes place in the saddle, logging mile after mile.

My usual view on different days was:

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And:

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Riding with a group, it’s nice when you all become adept at calling out various obstacles: “Branch!” “Hole!” “Section of the C&O that’s entirely missing and is now a cliff into the Potomac!”

Mentally, I try to think of a long riding day in terms of sections.  For instance, today we were looking forward to Mile Marker 36 (out of 62), where White’s Ferry was located.  We thought we would have a nice lunch there but it turns out the town was recovering from a flood so the restaurant off the trail was not open.  We ended up having a lunch of chips and ice cream, basically.  There are few occasions when a meal like that is acceptable, but biking 62 miles in a day is surely one of them.

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The next milestone was Great Falls, where we stopped for a quick peak:

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From here to DC the trail was quite crowded with tourists.  Near Great Falls especially, the trail was loaded with families and couples walking 2-5 people abreast. We tried to stay patient as we biked slowly around people as we called out, “Passing on your left!”  People largely seemed unaware that they were walking on a major bike trail.  But, living in Chicago and being accustomed to our Lakefront Path, that’s the nature of a popular, multi-use trail.

Once we reached DC, we just followed the path and the old-timey mile markers.  I was surprised that we were actually in the middle of DC, as the path was uninterrupted and seemed kind of below all the city’s action.  We didn’t have to ride in traffic until we made our way to our hotel!  It was really an amazing way to experience the city.

We finally reached Mile Marker 1:

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A piece of litter, specifically a fast food cup, was just to the right, just out of frame.  That’s why the mile marker is off center here.  Welcome back to city life!

From Mile 1, the route got a little more complicated, and we had to maneuver a couple of blocks over to get to Lock 1. At this point, we were all out of water, it was hot, and we were quite thirsty.  But. we of course had to celebrate and take pictures:

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And, welp, it turns out the trip wasn’t over!

A man from Brazil had just finished the C&O as well and his wife was there taking pictures.  When we said goodbye and started to head toward our hotel, he asked, “Don’t you want to go see Mile 0?”  We didn’t even know that was a thing, so we were glad to have run into him!

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So, we hopped back on our bikes, followed the couple to a boat house behind Watergate, and saw the very first lock at the Potomac River AND Mile Marker 0!

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Woo-hoo, we did it! (Now where can we get some water?)

Today’s Mileage: 62

Total Trip Mileage: 365

Day 6: A Long Ride

This morning, we woke up at Happy Hills to a completely quiet campground.  Things seemed so serene while the hundreds of people up late partying were still sleeping.

Ellen was up first and started the coffee.  Just FYI, the biker guys next to us had their guide/helper drive them to breakfast and then the guide/helper assisted with taking down their camp and cushy air mattresses.

Not that we were judging.

Although…. we did decide to ask a nice fella named George, a Happy Hills employee, if he would drive us to the start of the trail in his truck.  The road back to the trail was extremely hilly and precarious.  So, George kindly took us!

 

He dropped us off at the Western Maryland Trail (WMT), where we rode a glorious 15 miles on heavenly pavement:

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It was a great start to the day and set the tone for the remaining 60 miles.  It was also very easy to find the C&O again once the WMT ended.

On the WMT, we averaged about 16 mph, and I think we all felt that today was our strongest riding day!  We mostly rode at around 11-12 mph once we picked up the C&O again, which may not sound fast, but here’s what our bikes looked like:

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During today’s ride, we rode along the Potomac, and heard people boating and skiing all day.  It was a cool way to spend July 4th.  We saw lots of locks and dams, too:

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There was a cool stretch along the river, where we basically rode along a paved cliff:

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It was also very tempting to stop and take a dip in the water.  About halfway through the ride, we ate a great lunch at Desert Rose Cafe, to fuel the other half of the day’s ride:

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Afterwards, we ran into our new trail friends Rob and Dorothy, again.  They are the couple who gave us the nice bike pump. We saw them several times along the trail, and it was always fun to see what they were up to for the day.

We passed a significant milestone today, as we now have fewer than 100 miles to ride!

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We were very excited to get to Harper’s Ferry, after having ridden for 7 hours today.  We had to cross a bridge, however, that required us to carry our bikes up a metal, winding staircase:

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This bridge was full of tourists barging their way down the stairs while we were coming up, which I think made us all have less-than-civil thoughts toward them.  We then had to ride/walk our bikes 2 miles to our hotel on a scary, hilly highway.

However, Ellen’s brother and family surprised us by being at our hotel with delicious baked goods in hand.  And, they bought us dinner! Just what we all needed after the day!

Tomorrow, DC. Let’s finish this!

Today’s Mileage: 74

Tommorrow’s Itinerary: Harper’s Ferry to DC

Day 4: The Sky Breaks Open!

But first, an update from last night.

Husky Haven was a great campsite! It had showers, was clean, and our site came with a big pile of firewood.

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We stayed up until almost midnight chatting around the fire, roasting marshmallows, and drinking from our flasks.

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While we were chatting, a stray dog came up to us to say hello and we weren’t sure if it was friendly.  Lauren got scared and basically ran away, I observed things from afar, but Ellen handled the matter by Walking Toward The Dog In An Intimidating Manner. The dog ran away, scared.

Our campsite was quite close to a railroad track that ran at all hours of the night.  So, after some fitful sleeping we got up, ate, broke camp and were on the trail by about 9:30 am.

Today was our last day on the GAP, with 44 miles to go until we picked up the C&O Towpath in Cumberland, MD.  The first 20 miles were, again, a relentless incline.

Highlights of this portion were the Salisbury Viaduct:

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Some trail hospitality:

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And some great vistas up high:

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And then, we finally reached the Continental Divide, signifying the glorious end to uphill biking for awhile:

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At this point, the rain that had been threatening for the past few days began to pour, as we began our descent. Both the rain and the downhill were a great relief, and we maintained speeds of 16-17 mph the remaining 24 miles to Cumberland!

During this part of the day, we passed the Mason-Dixon Line:

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We passed lots of other cool sights, too, but it was raining far too hard to take our cameras out.  The rain and the mists were quite beautiful, though, as we descended.

We then arrived in Cumberland, the official border of the GAP and the CO:

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Cumberland, although much smaller than Chicago, felt very jarring, especially riding on roads with cars.

People were honking horns and, as we reached our hotel soaked and tired, clean shiny tourists were in our space asking obtrusive questions about our trip and itinerary. We just wanted to unpack and get dry.  The interactions felt noticeably different than with those we had been having with other bikers and campers, with whom it seems we shared a “we’re all in this together” mentality.

After showers, we went to a nice, delicious Italian restaurant, after which Ellen discovered she had been wearing her pants on backwards. We proceeded to have a laughing meltdown for a good 5 minutes.

So, on that note, we’ll end.

Today’s Mileage: 44

Tomorrow’s Itinerary: Cumberland, MD to Hancock, MD